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Refinishing

The prep is the job, not the stain

Finish applied over a dirty or glazed surface fails early no matter what is in the can. Cleaning, brightening and getting the moisture content right is where a refinish is won or lost.

Freshly finished honey-toned deck boards running on a diagonal
Why us

Why test the wood before opening a can?

The gate on staining is moisture content, not the calendar. We check the boards rather than working to a rule of thumb, because a finish put onto wood that is still wet peels, and stripping peeled film is a far bigger job.

  • Cleaned, then neutralized with brightener
  • Mill glaze and dead fibre removed
  • Moisture checked before coating
  • Finish matched to the wood age
  • Penetrating over film where sensible
  • Railing and stairs done, not skipped
Pale sanded planks with the grain raised and ready for finish
Process

What does a proper refinish involve?

1

Clean

Wood deck cleaner, scrubbed or lightly washed. Pressure is a tool here, not the method; too much of it furs the surface.

2

Brighten

A wood brightener neutralizes the cleaner and opens the pores so finish can actually penetrate rather than sit on top.

3

Test

Sprinkle water on the boards. Beading means still too wet or still glazed. Soaking in within about ten minutes means ready.

4

Coat

Finish applied to the boards, the railing and the stair treads, worked in rather than flooded on, and back-brushed where it needs it.

Why the cycle is short here

Sun does the damage, not the rain

Refinishing intervals in North Texas are driven by ultraviolet exposure rather than by wet weather, which is why decks here fail on a different schedule from decks in wetter, cooler markets. With eighteen days a year at or above 100 degrees, a July average high near 96, and very little to break the sun on a flat lot, a south or west-facing deck grays, checks and cups faster than most owners expect. Shaded decks and the boards under a cover behave completely differently. That difference is usually visible on the same deck, which makes it an easy thing to show you on site.

Clean, brighten, coat Moisture tested first Railings and stairs included Covered areas assessed separately
Pale sanded planks with the grain raised and ready for finish
Compare

Which finish and how does it fail?

Every finish is a trade between showing the grain and lasting. How it fails matters more than how long it lasts.

FinishGrain shownHow it failsRecoatBest for
Clear water repellentAll of itWears away evenlyClean and recoatNew wood you want to keep looking new
Semi-transparentMost of itWears away, no peelingClean and recoatThe usual choice on a maintained deck
Semi-solidSome of itMostly wears, can flakeClean and recoatOlder wood with uneven color
Solid stainNoneForms a film, then peelsStrip, then recoatTired wood being made uniform, at a cost
What we build

Deck work across Grand Prairie

Six lines of work, all of it outdoor carpentry, all of it drawn and permitted through the city's Building Inspections Division before a single hole is drilled.

Wicker table and chairs on a covered porch with a stained wood floor

Covered Decks

Roofed decks and patio covers that put real shade over a west-facing back yard by two o'clock.

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White pergola with arched beams over a garden walkway

Pergolas

Open pergolas and shade structures, with slat depth and rafter run set for a 100-degree afternoon.

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Close-up of a split, checked deck board beside a wide gap

Deck Repair

Rot, racking and loose ledgers diagnosed from under the deck, then repaired or re-framed.

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Freshly finished honey-toned deck boards running on a diagonal

Deck Staining

Cleaning, brightening and refinishing on the short cycle North Texas sun actually demands.

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Our promise

If the boards are still too wet to take a finish, we will reschedule rather than coat them and take your money. A finish that peels in a year costs you the price of stripping it, and that is a worse outcome than waiting a two weeks.

Service area

Grand Prairie and the rest of Dallas County

Grand Prairie runs long and narrow between Dallas and Fort Worth, so the truck is already crossing county lines most days. Arlington, Irving, Cedar Hill, Duncanville, DeSoto, Mansfield and Midlothian are all inside the normal run, and so is the Mountain Creek side of southwest Dallas. No travel surcharge inside that footprint.

Grand Prairie ArlingtonIrvingMansfield Cedar HillDuncanvilleDeSoto MidlothianOvillaMountain Creek Fort WorthDallasJoe Pool Lake Dallas County
01

Staining and sealing

Cleaning and refinishing in the DFW metro typically runs $2 to $4 per square foot, depending on the condition of the wood, how much railing there is, and whether an old film finish has to be stripped first.
More often than in most of the country, because sun rather than rain drives the wear. Rather than working to a fixed interval, use the water test: if it stops soaking in within about ten minutes, the finish is still doing its job.
Until the wood is dry enough, not until a date on the calendar. The target is roughly 15 percent moisture content or lower. Circulating advice ranges from two months to six, which is exactly why the field test beats the rule.
Usually not. Most modern deck stains are also sealers, so a separate sealer coat afterwards is generally unnecessary and can interfere with the finish you just put down.
No, and you should not need to. Capped composite and cellular PVC are designed to skip the finish cycle entirely. If a composite deck looks tired, that is a cleaning question rather than a coating one.
02

Prep and older wood

A smooth, closed surface left by the milling process that stops finish soaking in. It has to be opened up during prep, or the coat sits on the surface and lifts off in sheets a season later.
Lightly, and as one step among several. Pressure alone drives water into the boards and raises the grain into a fuzz that then has to be dealt with. Cleaner and brightener do the actual work.
Grey is usually just weathered surface fibre and comes off during prep, revealing sound wood underneath. Whether it takes color evenly afterwards depends on the age of the boards and how uneven the wear is.
Then it is a film-forming product and it has to come off before anything new goes on. That is a strip, and it is a materially bigger job than a clean and recoat, which is why we quote it separately.
The EPA states that applying a penetrating coating such as an oil or water-based stain on a regular basis may reduce leaching from older CCA-treated wood. On a pre-2004 deck that is a genuine reason to keep up with it.

Tell us what the back yard has to work with

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